Illustration by Chandler Bondurant
Like the humble T-shirt, the thermal shirt began as underwear. Typically knit from cotton in a waffle-pattern that more effectively trapped heat and wicked away moisture, it was issued to U.S. Army soldiers fighting in winter conditions during World War II and worn below their standard kit as an insulating base layer.
The thermal shirt can play much the same role today, as its cotton fabric is breathable and soft enough to be worn directly against the skin, and is typically designed to fit below shirts, sweaters and jackets.
But much like the cotton tee, it’s also managed to break out of the underwear category to be worn as a first-and-only layer on its own. And in warmer weather, you can even push up its sleeves for a reliably rugged yet casual look.
Should you be in need of a thermal foundation yourself, we’ve rounded up a prime selection of shirts from Todd Snyder, Save Khaki United, Buck Mason and more below.
RRL Waffle-Knit Crewneck
Image Credit: RRL 
Ralph Lauren’s been known to rock a thermal shirt from time to time, particularly below a half-unbuttoned flannel or denim shirt tucked into jeans. Steal his look with this cotton waffle-knit from his RRL sub-brand, which has been washed to achieve a pleasingly vintage appearance.
Todd Snyder Lightweight Mini Waffle Tee
Image Credit: Todd Snyder Modeled after vintage military thermals, this long-sleeved Todd Snyder tee is made from a waffled Peruvian cotton with natural stretch. Its light weight will make it a versatile layering piece well into spring.
Buck Mason Vintage Thermal Surplus Tee
Image Credit: Buck Mason Buck Mason’s thermal long-sleeve cotton tee is waffle-knit in the front but features smooth jersey in the back, allowing it to more easily slide under jackets and other layers. Finished with the label’s trademark curved hem, it can easily be worn on its own untucked over jeans.
Relwen Bi-Waffle Thermal Crew
Image Credit: Relwen Relwen takes an exacting approach to the design of its trail-to-town pieces, and its bi-waffle thermal crew is no exception. Fabricated from 100% pre-shrunk cotton that’s been yarn-dyed for deeper and more saturated colors, it features a reinforced collar and doubled-over cuffs for extra durability.
Save Khaki United LS Crew Waffle Tee
Image Credit: Save Khaki United Like the rest of Save Khaki United’s range, its long-sleeved crew waffle tee is made in the U.S.A. Constructed from mid-weight, ring-spun cotton, it also features set-in sleeves and ribbing at the cuffs and collar.
Lady White Co. Euclid Thermal
Image Credit: Lady White Co. Knit, cut and sewn entirely in Los Angeles, Lady White Co.’s Euclid thermal is made from a custom-developed cotton mesh with a smooth jersey interior. Cut with a shorter hem and a wider body, it wears more like a sweater than a shirt.
Merz B. Schwanen Diamond-Patterned Cotton Thermal Longsleeve
Image Credit: Merz B. Schwanen There’s a vintage sensibility to much of what Merz B. Schwanen, which was originally founded in 1911 to make workmen’s shirts and underwear, produces today. That includes its long-sleeved cotton thermal, which has a unique diamond-patterned structure and was modeled after an antique find.
The Real McCoys U.S. Army Military Thermal Shirt
Image Credit: The Real McCoys No one does military reproductions quite like The Real McCoys, and the Japanese label set its sights on recreating the thermal shirts issued to U.S. military personnel in the 1970s. While its remake features the same honeycomb pattern as the originals, it benefits from a less-dense yarn count and underarm gussets for greater comfort and mobility.
Billy Reid Mini Waffle Crew
Image Credit: Billy Reid Billy Reid’s cotton-cashmere crew is full of thoughtful design touches, like a rolled hem and a reversed waffle weave at the elbows.
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