Huntsman
It’s an exciting time to take an interest in the rarefied world of bespoke, custom, and made-to-measure clothing in New York, as the city is awash with local and international artisans, heritage makers working at the top of their craft, and young designers putting their stamp on a centuries-old art.
But first, a note on terminology, as not all personalized tailoring is made at the same level. At the entry point is made-to-measure, which is often made with the same quality and at the same facilities as ready-made clothing but differs in that its pre-set “block” or pattern has been altered to account for a client’s measurements and certain styling preferences, including their choice of fabric. Made-to-measure clothing arrives in near-final form save for the placement of the sleeve buttons but can be additionally altered to better fit the client.
Bespoke, also called “bench made,” represents the other side of the spectrum. Rather than adjusting a factory’s pre-existing templates, a tailor will create an entirely new pattern for the client. This allows for a much fuller range of customizations and fit adjustments over a greater number of fittings, which typically begins with a temporary “basted” fitting held together by string.
That, however, is only the most broadly accepted definition—other considerations, such as whether the pattern is drawn on paper or the garment features additional levels of handmaking will vary by maker. As this suggests, many firms fall somewhere between these two poles and define themselves under the big-tent classification of “custom,” which can be understood as a blend of the two.
Now, whether your next custom commission will be a three-piece suit or a polo shirt, consult the list of makers below.
Alan Flusser Custom
Image Credit: Rose Callahan Photography While ownership of the business passed from its titular founder to long-serving associate Jonathan Sigmon in 2020, the house style developed by Flusser over the course of four decades remains. Today, clients can procure its “updated drape” silhouette—marked by a soft, natural shoulder, a fuller chest and a trim waist—through three levels of custom make. Its highest-level “Heritage” offering is handmade in New York City, while its “Gentry” and “Club” have varying levels of hand and machine work. While it may always be most readily associated with Wall Street antagonist Gordon Gekko—who Flusser famously outfitted—the business also tailors for women.
Address: 3 East 48th Street, Floor 3, New York, NY 10017
Phone: +1 212-888-4500Alexander Black
Image Credit: Alexander Black Operating from a space just steps away from Prospect Park, Alexander Black offers potential clients with three levels of make. Its custom suits are made overseas utilizing a digital customer pattern based on 25 individual measurements. The semi-bespoke offering, meanwhile, relies on a hand-struck paper pattern and includes more handwork at vital points including the shoulder and sleeves. Finally, its full bespoke make is produced start-to-finish by a single tailor in New York City and requires more than 70 hours of labor.
Address: 34 Plaza St East Suite 101, Brooklyn, NY 11238
Phone: +1 347-600-8217Angel Ramos New York
The Angel Ramos house style is infused by the sartorial signifiers of the Jazz Age and the gregarious personal style of its titular founder and creative director. Fittings are conducted via private appointment, and the resulting made-to-measure garments (evening wear is a particular specialty) are marked by soft shoulders, drapey jackets and trousers cut higher and fuller.
The Armoury
Image Credit: Harry Zernike International retailer The Armoury maintains two New York locations in Tribeca and the Upper East Side, each of which carries an extensive range of tailoring from multiple parties. Made-to-measure suits and sport coats from Japan’s Ring Jacket and The Armoury’s own-label Hundred Series are available year-round, as are trousers from the Italian maker Rota. Bespoke, meanwhile, comes in the form of the Tokyo-based Tailor Caid, who visits twice annually to fit clients for his Ivy-inspired creations.
Tribeca
Address: 168 Duane Street, New York, NY 10013
Phone +1 646-613-7613Upper East Side
Address: 13 East 69th St, New York, NY 10021
Phone: +1 646-613-7614Beggars Run
Image Credit: Beggars Run From its street-level Nolita digs, Beggars Run serves a rapidly expanding demographic: men who don’t have to wear a suit but want to. The made-to-measure clothier, which began in London before opening its New York outpost in 2023, puts a premium on cloth, curating its own selection of English-milled fabrics in decidedly non-corporate colors and materials (corduroy is a perennial favorite). Unusual for a custom maker, Beggars Run produces a sample garment from the majority of its fabrics on offer, giving patrons an in-person look at the finished product.
Address: 172 Elizabeth St, Ground Floor, New York, NY 10012
Phone: +1 646-647-3305Cad & the Dandy
Image Credit: Cad & the Dandy Only in its second decade of business, bespoke maker Cad & The Dandy is a Savile Row import whose relative youthfulness is reflected in a deference to client preferences and a rakish “penthouse” showroom perched atop a tailor-filled tower on West 57th Street. In comparison to its London brethren, jackets are typified by a softer shoulder and more structured body, and can be completed in a much shorter timeframe. A toile fitting typically arrives three weeks after an order is placed, and garments can be finished in five.
Address: 130 W 57th Street, 11B, New York, NY 10019
Phone: +1 917-695-7610F. E. Castleberry
Image Credit: F.E. Castleberry From the moment one steps into Frederick Egan Castleberry’s pink-walled, art-filled atelier on West Broadway, it’s apparent that the designer has created a world of his own—and his made-to-measure clothing is very much an extension of that Wes Anderson-influenced vision. An F.E. Castleberry jacket is marked by soft, natural shoulders, 3⅝” notched lapels and a trio of widely spaced surgeon’s cuffs; meanwhile, trousers are cut on the relaxed side with 2½” turn-ups and jetted off-seam pockets. “Fashion” is sometimes a dirty word in the world of custom tailoring, but at F.E. Castleberry, you’re very much in the designer’s hands.
Address: 246 W. Broadway, New York, NY 10013
Fitzgerald
Image Credit: Fitzgerald/Lucas Flores Piran Ralph Fitzgerald began working on Savile Row as a teenager, but today the English expat cuts patterns for bespoke clients in an atelier just steps from Central Park. His sartorial past is evident in a house style that favors a strong shoulder, a nipped waist, and a low buttoning stance with a single closure. While true to the British tailoring tradition, it’s a cut that’s more sexy than staid, particularly when complemented by any one of the luxurious, vintage fabrics Fitzgerald takes pride in sourcing himself. He’s also built a strong book of female clients, often working in softer fabrics like velvet or lambswool bouclé.
Address: 14 E. 60th Street, New York, NY 10022
Genuardi Master Tailor
Image Credit: Genuardi Master Tailor The eponymous Joseph Genuardi left a career in industrial design to study under one of Philadelphia’s last remaining bespoke tailors, eventually clinching the position of head tailor at Martin Greenfield. Genuardi struck out on his own in 2016 and now works out of a converted industrial building in Hoboken, where he and his team create bespoke garments—from suits to overcoats to casual zipped vests—entirely on-site. That soup-to-nuts focus extends to the soft yet structured canvassing Genuardi utilizes, which is made in-house.
Address: 333 Newark St., Bldg. H, 4th Floor Hoboken, NJ 07030
Phone: +1 201-419-5975Huntsman
Image Credit: Huntsman Huntsman stands out as the first Savile Row bespoke tailor to establish a permanent presence across the pond, having opened its small showroom on West 57th Street in 2016. Its high-ceilinged, library-like space hosts an in-house cutter to take client measurements and conduct fittings. Once an order is placed, the garments are made in London according to Huntsman’s equestrian-inspired house style marked by strong shoulders, a defined waist, and a single button stance. At Huntsman, two levels of bespoke are offered: the premium “Bespoke 1849”, which offers access to more exclusive cloths and fabrics from the Huntsman archives, and the standard bespoke that can be completed in a shorter timeline.
Address: 130 W 57th Street, 9th Floor, New York, NY 10019
Phone: +1 646-590-2595J. Meuser
Image Credit: J. Mueser J. Mueser merges a downtown sensibility with Neapolitan tailoring at its second-floor showroom in the West Village, which is complemented by a ready-to-wear haberdashery across the street. Representing the bespoke side of the business is the Waverly, which is made in Naples from a hand-drafted pattern and marked by a lightly constructed shoulder. The Mayfair, its fully bench-made offering, is tailored in New York and more built up through multiple layers of canvas and a stronger shoulder.
Address: 19 Christopher Street Store B, New York, NY 10014
Phone: +1 347-982-4382Leonard Logsdail
Image Credit: Chandler Bondurant London-born, Savile Row-trained Leonard Logsdail brings over 50 years of tailoring experience to his midtown atelier, which he opened in 1991. While the business has earned attention for outfitting films like The Wolf of Wall Street and American Gangster, Logsdail practices bespoke at a remarkably intimate and traditional level. He personally takes each client’s measurements, drafts their paper pattern and cuts their fabric himself. Afterward, the garments are made locally by a single jacket maker, trouser maker and buttonhole-finisher—each is touched by just four individuals. In addition to bespoke, Logsdail also maintains a made-to-measure offering that is produced in Canada.
Address: 9 East 53rd Street, Floor 4, New York, NY 10022
Phone: +1 212-752-5030Manolo Costa
Image Credit: Manolo COsta Before going solo, Manolo Costa helped launch Paul Stuart’s Phineas Cole line and managed the Purple Label department at the Polo mansion. That inclination for old-world glamour is still expressed at his Upper East Side atelier, which is decorated with art and antiques collected by Costa on his travels—and are available for clients to purchase. His bespoke garments take after American tailoring from the 1920s and ‘30s, with soft, natural shoulders and structured bodies. The clothing is made domestically, and typically completed after eight to 10 weeks with three to four fittings.
Address: 130 ¼ East 65th Street, New York, NY 10065
Phone: +1 212-889-2625Martin Greenfield Clothiers
Image Credit: Martin Greenfield Clothiers Brooklyn’s Martin Greenfield Clothiers carries a unique heritage. Its titular founder was orphaned in the Holocaust before emigrating to the United States and finding work as a floor boy at the factory he came to purchase. As a master tailor, Greenfield went on to make suits for U.S. presidents and productions including Boardwalk Empire and The Great Gatsby, and today the factory bearing his name is the last union shop remaining in the New York area. Clients who wish to engage its custom services can visit the factory’s third floor, where they’ll be fitted for a personal pattern that will be cut on the floor directly above them before being used to make their garments on-site.
Address: 239 Varet Street, Brooklyn, NY 11206
Phone: +1 718-808-8472Michael Andrews Bespoke
Image Credit: Michael Andrews More is more at Michael Andrews Bespoke, whose big tent approach to custom clothing—in addition to suiting, the business also fits clients for custom jeans, knitwear, swim trunks, and beyond—is made possible by its direct ownership of a bespoke workshop overseas. Similarly, it eschews a particular house aesthetic for a sandbox approach, leaving styling in the hands of its customers. Its appointment-only showrooms in NoHo and Midtown are each equipped with full bars, so that patrons can deliberate over their ideal garment while nursing a cocktail on tap.
Address: 2 Great Jones Alley, New York, NY 10012; 9 E 53rd St, New York, NY, 10022
Phone: +1 212-677-1755New & Lingwood
Image Credit: Photo: Courtesy of New & Lingwood New & Lingwood is headquartered on Jermyn Street in London, but maintains an Upper East Side store with made-to-measure offerings on the second floor. In addition to suits and shirting, New & Lingwood also allows clients to order custom-made dressing gowns in fine fabrics, including silk and cashmere, which are made directly at its Jermyn Street shop.
Address: 970 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10021
Phone: +1 212-585-1865Paolo Martorano Bespoke
Image Credit: Weston Wells Paolo Martorano Bespoke was established in 2017 when its founder was just 25 years old, but its quality has attracted some of menswear’s most discerning vets. Martorano practices the bespoke art at its most traditional with custom paper patterns and basted fittings for each garment. Jackets are hand-sewn with hand-padded collars, chests, and lapels, and trousers are hand-basted and finished by six hours of manual pressing. The house silhouette embraces classic proportions and is characterized by a natural, lightly padded shoulder with gentle roping at the sleevehead. In addition to traditional tailoring and eveningwear, Martorano also offers bespoke pajamas, gilets, safari jackets, and other less formal fare.
Address: 130 West 57th Street, 2A, New York, NY 10019
Phone: +1 212 363 0135P. Johnson
Image Credit: Glen Allsop Aussie import P. Johnson hosts an airy, third-floor showroom in SoHo where clients are measured to create an individual series of patterns. Afterward, these may be used to make a wide array of formal or casual made-to-measure garments, ranging from suits to shirt jackets to polos. The highest-level offerings are produced by P. Johnson’s Tuscan factory Sartoria Carrara and made predominantly by hand. The brand also partners with a Shanghai factory that produces its “Pronto” line made at a lower price point and with a shorter turnaround time, as well as its P. Johnson Femme line of made-to-measure garments for women.
Address: 138 Spring St, 5th Floor, New York, NY 10012
Phone: +1 917-533-5879The Tailory
Founded in 2013 by designer Shao Yang, the Tailory takes a thoroughly modern approach to custom tailoring. Offering both made-to-measure and bespoke, it is one of the only firms that markets itself equally to men and women, as well as clients who identify outside the gender binary. In addition to traditional suiting, it also offers custom cocktail dresses, jumpsuits, bomber jackets, and even denim.
Address: 511 Canal St, Floor 2, New York, NY 10013
Phone: +1 212-813-1014Thom Sweeney
Image Credit: Thom Sweeney After having left its SoHo digs to take up future residence on the Upper East Side, contemporary British tailor Thom Sweeney is currently operating out of a pop-up in NoHo. The brand’s made-to-measure offering is available in three models: a modern British construction with a lightweight chest canvas, lightly padded shoulders, and a gently roped sleevehead; a softly structured jacket with an Italian-style shoulder construction; and a completely unstructured and unlined make—all of which are made in Italy. Its bespoke is tailored in London following a client’s individual paper pattern and cut with an updated English silhouette that leans trimmer with lightweight chest canvassing and subtler shoulder pads.
Address: 30 Bond St, New York, NY 10012
Tiefenbrun
Image Credit: Tiefenbrun Just as him nom de Instagram would suggest, Yosel Tiefenbrun—aka @rabbitailor—is an ordained rabbi. But he’s also a classically trained bespoke tailor, having studied at the Savile Row Academy before apprenticing for Maurice Sedwell. His Tribeca showroom may be a long way from the Row, but the English influence can be felt in a house style marked by roped shoulders, high armholes and a suppressed waist.
Address: 5 Staple St, New York, NY 10013
Phone: +1 718-650-6120Turnbull & Asser
Image Credit: Turnbull & Asser Those wishing to engage the Royal Warrant-holding shirtmaker’s custom services in Manhattan will find the bespoke department on the third floor of its Midtown flagship. Within, clients will have the opportunity to select from over 1,000 fabrics, 25 options for collars and cuffs and 20 varieties of monogram and will have 18 body measurements taken to develop their custom paper pattern.
Address: 50 East 57th Street, New York, NY 10022
Phone: +1 212-752-5700
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