MILAN — Despite a slower-than-expected recovery and still uncertain prospects for the menswear and fashion sectors, the upcoming Pitti Uomo show is being approached with optimism by its organizers.
Running June 16 to 19, the 110th edition of the showcase will feature four guest designers and about 720 exhibiting brands, 44 percent of which are international, as of this week.
“Small businesses are growing, making significant strides, and I think Pitti Uomo represents many of these brands,” said Antonio De Matteis, chief executive officer of Kiton and president of Pitti Immagine, the trade show’s parent. “That’s why I’m feeling very positive about the event. There are 720 exhibitors coming in, all aiming to step up their game. June is shaping up to be an incredible showcase, we’re already seeing clients confirming their attendance.”
According to figures provided by Confindustria Moda, exports of Italian menswear fell 1.7 percent in 2025 to 9.4 billion euros, dented by a 5.7 decline in markets outside Europe. Exports were up 3 percent in European countries. Overall, France, the U.S. and Germany were the top three importers of Made in Italy products last year, the former two growing 3.5 percent, the research note said. The latter declined 4.6 percent and was followed by China, which was down 13.7 percent year-on-year.
The newly minted Pitti Immagine CEO, Ivano Cauli, said that amid geopolitical turmoil and macroeconomic woes, the menswear trade fair is committed to injecting the energy the sector needs.
“Navigating the future is the message and goal with which we are building the next editions of fashion trade shows starting with Pitti Uomo,” he said. “In a historic moment defined by complex geopolitical changes and a constantly evolving global landscape, Florence’s physical trade fair reaffirms its role as a compass for facilitating and guiding the dialogue between supply and demand.” Cauli succeeded Raffaello Napoleone, who is taking on the role of delegate to international and institutional affairs, as reported.
Cauli said that as of this week about 11,400 visitors are expected to explore the fairgrounds, which will feature an installation by designer Philéo Landowski and Lebanese artist Pascal Hachem centered on the trade show’s seasonal theme “The Pool.”
The campaign for Pitti Uomo’s June 2026 edition titled “The Pool.”
Courtesy of Pitti Uomo
Headlined by British designer Simone Rocha, who is hosting her first menswear-only runway show on June 18 at 5 p.m. CET at the Teatro della Pergola, Pitti Uomo pulled a roster of four guest designers for the June edition, instead of the usual three.
As reported, they include Sunflower, the Danish brand founded in Copenhagen in 2018 by Ulrik Pedersen, which is holding its show at the Teatro del Maggio Musicale on June 17 at 7 p.m. CET. The invitation came as part of the fair’s tie-up and special project with Copenhagen Fashion Week to mark the latter’s 20th anniversary.
Later that night, DSM Kei Ninomiya — the newfangled Dover Street Market private label currently helmed by the designer behind Noir that is part of the Comme des Garçons family — is hosting its first runway show at 10 p.m. CET at the Complesso di Sant’Orsola former monastery.
South Korean designer Jiyong Kim, a 2024 LVMH Prize for Young Designers’ semifinalist, will also present his spring 2027 menswear collection at the fair but opted for a presentation format at the Magazzino 07 spaces inside the fairgrounds. His participation was orchestrated in tandem with the Korea Creative Content Agency, a government agency under South Korea’s Ministry of Culture and Tourism.
Although not characterized as a guest designer, British up-and-coming talent William Palmer, one of the winners of the grand prize at the 2026 International Talent Support contest, known as ITS, and the recipient of the Pitti Immagine Award, is also showcasing his collection at the fair.
Among the exhibitors confirmed for the June edition of Pitti Uomo, many are teasing new directions under fresh owners. The workwear and utilitarian U.S. brand Dickies is making its debut at the fair after the acquisition by Bluestar Alliance last year from previous owner VF Corp. and will also supply uniforms for the Pitti Uomo staff. Swimwear brand Sundek, now owned by the Turin-based BasicNet, will unveil a new label at the fair, called Goldenwave and inspired by its Californian and surfwear roots. The sneaker label Philippe Model Paris, acquired by Swinger International last December, is also returning to Pitti Uomo to reinstate its standing in the premium casual luxury segment, while fellow footwear player Castner is kicking off celebrations for its centennial at the fair.
Other exhibitors will include the labels in the orbit of WP Lavori in Corso, such as Baracuta, Barbour and Blundstone, among others; Brunello Cucinelli; Herno; Ellesse; Pro-Keds; Frescobal Carioca; Stefano Ricci, and Nanamica, to name a few.
Street style at Pitti Uomo 108 in Florence in 2025.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
The fair will be organized around the usual five sections, such as Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling and I Go Out. The latter section, dedicated to outdoor activities and activewear, is set to undergo the most significant revamp orchestrated in partnership with specialist magazine Vanish, which curated both the immersive set-up and a selection of brands to heighten the fashion credential of the pavilion.
The HiBeauty space, introduced last January and dedicated to fragrances, a reflection of the growing demand within stores between the category and fashion, is to return this season.
Pitti Uomo also confirmed its collaborations with key institutional fashion associations globally and will reprise its sections Code Korea; China Wave; J Quality, and Japan Leather Showroom for Japanese ready-to-wear and leather accessories brands, respectively, as well as the Promas and ICEX areas, dedicated to French and Spanish labels, respectively. The Scandinavian Manifesto section, a mainstay of the fair over the past few years, is not returning in June.
A new book on Emilio Pucci written by his niece Idanna Pucci, a writer, and Terence Ward and titled “Emilio Pucci: The Remarkable Story of a Great Fashion Artist,” is to be presented at the fairgrounds on June 17.
Among the off-fair events, footwear brand Sebago, part of the BasicNet umbrella of brands, is celebrating its 80th anniversary with an event at the Società Canottieri rowing club on June 17, while leading fashion schools Polimoda, IED and Istituto Marangoni Firenze will host activations in town.
View the original article here
