Pauline Karpidas has quite a fabulous eye. The legendary British art collector has spent half a century acquiring paintings, sculpture, and furniture, along with nurturing contemporary creatives as a formidable patron. The aesthete has also built an incredible collection of jewelry—some of which could soon be yours.
This December, Sotheby’s is auctioning off 70 of Karpidas’s own pieces in a dedicated evening sale in New York. It comes roughly a year after her trove of Surrealist masterpieces realized $137 million at Sotheby’s, setting a record as the most valuable single-owner collection sold at auction in London at the time.
Bold, whimsical, and eclectic, the jewelry collection is a clear reflection of Karpidas and her singular vision. She is something of a contrarian collector, driven by her personal taste and instincts rather than trends, the market, and the crowd. She has always gravitated toward unique and unconventional jewelry that makes a statement.
In what Sotheby’s has labeled “one of the most extraordinary jewelry collections ever assembled,” are one-of-a-kind creations by Joel Arthur Rosenthal (JAR) and Suzanne Belperron, retro jewels by Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Jacques Lacloche, and Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin, historic Art Deco pieces by Cartier, and spectacular colored gemstones.
Pauline Karpidas: The Jewelry Collection will be offered in a dedicated live auction at the Breuer on December 8, where it is expected to hammer down for over $10 million. The pieces will also be on display at the Breuer from December 2.
Below are five standout pieces from the upcoming auction.
JAR Colored Diamond, Diamond, and Chalcedony Ring
Karpidas has an affinity for artists and jewelers who challenge convention, making perennial rule-breaker Joel Arthur Rosenthal—better known as JAR—an obvious favorite. This beautiful ring centers around a giant pink diamond that appears as though trapped in ice.
Estimate: $2.5 million to $3.5 million
JAR Floral Pendant Necklace
This gorgeous gold necklace is an early example of JAR’s floral motifs, which are, of course, a cornerstone of his oeuvre. The light, delicate pendant belies the generous use of gold and gemstones.
Estimate: $250,000 to $350,000
Suzanne Belperron Aquamarine and Diamond Necklace/Brooch
Much of Suzanne Belperron’s jewelry was bespoke, or produced in very small, limited quantities, and this aquamarine and diamond necklace doesn’t have close comparables. That is perhaps because it was originally conceived as a brooch, which now serves as the removable centerpiece.
Estimate: $150,000 to $250,000
Cartier Ruby Boule Bead Earrings and a Ruby Boule Bead Ring
These beautiful ruby earrings and matching ring were both crafted by Cartier. Karpidas bought them in Sotheby’s historic sale of the Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor in 1987.
Estimate: $100,000 to $150,000
Seaman Schepps Rock Crystal Bracelet
Seaman Schepps created this rock crystal bracelet in 1945, making it a true 20th-century gem. Karpidas bought it in 1988 at Sotheby’s landmark auction of jewelry and watches from the Andy Warhol Estate.
Estimate: $50,000 to $70,000
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