Frequently asked questions
What exactly is urea and what does it do?
Urea is a substance naturally found in our skin that’s part of its natural moisturizing factor, which helps the skin hold onto water. This is part of what makes urea unique: It works with the skin to attract and retain moisture, but depending on concentration, it can also help exfoliate and soften rough skin.
Think of urea as a multitasker that can hydrate and exfoliate. At lower concentrations, it primarily acts as a humectant, drawing water into the skin, while higher concentrations become keratolytic, helping loosen the bonds between dead skin cells.
That combination makes it especially useful when dryness comes with texture. Dr. King recommends urea for “really dry, rough, or thickened skin,” including cracked heels, calluses, and rough elbows and knees, as well as keratosis pilaris. With consistent use, Gallo says, skin can also “appear more hydrated and supple, with improved texture and less visible creasing caused by dehydration.”
What percentage urea should I use?
With urea, higher isn’t necessarily better—the right percentage depends on what you’re trying to treat. “This is one of those ingredients where the percentage really matters,” says Dr. King. At around 5%, she considers urea primarily hydrating; around 10%, you get hydration with more noticeable softening and gentle exfoliation. Once you reach 20% or higher, urea is better suited for more significant roughness, scaling, and thickened skin, while 30% to 40% formulas are intensive treatments for concerns such as stubborn calluses and thick, cracked heels.
For the face, Gallo typically looks for formulas with 5% to 10% urea paired with hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients. Ultimately, Dr. King says to consider the formula as a whole and what you’re trying to accomplish: “A thoughtful formula matters much more to me than seeing a trendy ingredient prominently displayed on the front of the package.”
What is the difference between urea and hydroxyethyl urea?
They may sound almost interchangeable on an ingredient list, but urea and hydroxyethyl urea don’t function exactly the same way. “They’re actually pretty different,” says Dr. Turegano. Traditional urea acts as a humectant and, at higher concentrations, a keratolytic, meaning it can both hydrate and help soften thick, rough, or scaly skin.
Hydroxyethyl urea, on the other hand, is a urea derivative used primarily for its moisturizing properties. “It’s great for hydration, but it doesn’t have the same well-established keratolytic or exfoliating benefits as traditional urea,” says Dr. Turegano. In other words, don’t assume a product containing hydroxyethyl urea will provide the same exfoliating benefits as a high-percentage traditional urea cream.
Is urea safe for the face?
Yes, but this is a case where you probably don’t want to reach for the strongest formula on the shelf. “Urea can be a really nice facial skin care ingredient, especially at lower concentrations,” says Dr. King, who says it can hydrate and support the skin barrier without the stronger percentages typically found in foot and body treatments. Gallo simply looks for facial formulas containing around 5% to 10% urea, ideally alongside other hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients.
If your skin is sensitive or reactive, proceed more cautiously with higher concentrations. Dr. King also recommends avoiding high-strength urea on irritated, cracked, or compromised skin because it can sting. And if you’re using urea on your face, Gallo recommends applying a urea cream after corrective and hydrating serums and before SPF in the morning.
What ingredients work well with urea?
Urea plays particularly well with ingredients that help hydrate and support the skin barrier. Dr. King recommends looking for formulas containing glycerin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and emollients. For rougher skin, urea can also be paired with exfoliating ingredients such as salicylic acid, lactic acid, and AHAs for additional smoothing power.
Just don’t turn your routine into an exfoliation Olympics. “If you’re using a high-strength urea cream, especially one that already contains salicylic acid or another exfoliant, I wouldn’t then layer a bunch of additional acids or a retinoid over the same area,” says Dr. King. Gallo sees the consequences of that firsthand: “Layering acids or exfoliating too often can compromise the skin barrier, creating a dry, rough texture and making crepey skin appear more visible.”
We put these formulas to work, with multiple Glamour editors testing products across different concentrations and skin concerns. Urea creams under 20% were evaluated primarily for hydration and how moisturized and soft skin felt after use, while formulas with 20% urea or more were tested for their ability to soften and smooth rough, thick, or callused skin. We also asked dermatologists and a master aesthetician which urea products they personally use and recommend to patients and clients, and pored over online reviews to see which formulas consistently performed well for real users.
- Mamina Turegano, MD, triple board-certified dermatologist, internist, and dermatopathologist
- Hadley King, MD, board-certified dermatologist and clinical instructor of dermatology at Weill Medical College of Cornell University
- Rachel Gallo, master aesthetician at Silver Mirror
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