Historically, corsetry and lingerie were hidden beneath clothing, designed to restrict, shape, or cage the female form. At LFW SS27, British designers turned those traditional symbols of constraint into statements of power, just as Vivienne Westwood had done almost 40 years previously.
By exposing inner construction, and exaggerated silhouettes, like Harris Reed’s dramatic wing-like bodices and sculptural corsetry seen on several runways, to translating lingerie into rigid, industrial materials as seen at Litscher, they transformed traditionally intimate pieces into a form of visual armor.
The surge of boudoir dressing, corsetry, and lingerie-as-outerwear on the London runways reflected a desire to subvert conventional femininity, while tapping into fashion’s current fascination with historical references and reinterpretations of the past.
Harris Reed SS27
A two-piece bodice, the top in cream silk jacquard with sweeping structural wing-like lapels framing an off-the-shoulder neckline. The lower half features intricate, symmetrical beadwork and heavy textures that seamlessly flow into the tailored, flared trousers. Accessories included lizard print flats with diamond buckles.
Yuhan Wang SS27
A ruffled light pink camisole bodice with a white lace trim and drawstring waist paired with a draped, deconstructed white lace skirt over white bloomers, knee-high lace socks and delicate ballet-inspired flats.
Dreaming Eli SS27 by Elisa Trombatore
A sheer cream floral lace under-the-bust corset featuring a curved boning structure and hook-and-eye details and long lace sash, with a champagne/cream satin ruched asymmetrical mini skirt with side string gathers and high satin platform pumps wrapped with thick ballet-style satin ribbons around the ankles.
Agro SS27 by George Oxby and Angus Cockram
A structured, sheer white bone-exposed corset layered over a mesh tank top with a sheer, outerwear jacket with open-slit sleeves, paired with a matching translucent midi skirt; finished with black pointed-toe stiletto heels with ankle straps.
Pauline Dujancourt SS27
A textured jacquard chemise featuring exaggerated balloon sleeves and a curved, pointed hem with a soft, semi-sheer midi-length skirt rendered in a delicate blush pink, ruched and draped across the front to create fluid folds. Velvet mary-janes finished the look.
Knwls SS27 by Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault
A cream-colored corset with a ruched waist and white boy-cut underwear. Styled with a backwards bra, and an upside-down tank top clipped onto the suspenders. Accessories included KNWLS brand sling-back mules.
Labrum SS27 by Foday Dumbuya
A strapless, structured top with wooden buttons and matching mini skirt with a vintage newspaper print and an asymmetric, sheer cream overlay skirt with a thigh-high slit detailed with delicate lace-up ties. Accessories included a draped burgundy neck scarf and white mules.
Ginny Litscher SS27
A draped, multicolor scarf-print blouse with cold-shoulder cutouts and draped sleeves integrated with a metal chainlink mesh corset with high-waisted, medium-wash straight-leg denim jeans featuring ornate tapestry-style printed panels down the front of both legs
Erdem Moralioglu SS27
a crystal-embellished bralette with a pale pink panel, and layered sheer black peplum draped with cascading beaded strass, with a tiered black lace flounced skirt and black patent shoes.
Alexander McQueen SS27 by Seán McGirr
A structured, sheer black lace corset featuring patent boning. The bodice has geometric halter straps that frame the collarbone, anchored by a thick, buckle-fastened leather choker around the neck and a voluminous, floor-length maxi skirt made of high-shine liquid leather.
Mithridate SS27 by Daniel W. Fletcher
A hot pink and navy striped corset with suspenders hanging loose over a pinstriped button-down dress shirt with arm garters and high-waisted wide-leg beige pants. Sporty white sneakers with dark red contrasting laces finished the look.
Simone Rocha SS27
A satin negligée dress with a floral print camisole top black lace detailing and pink geo print skirt. The look was accessorized with leather gloves, black leather and fur slides, and a textured cream tulle stole slung over one shoulder.
Annie’s Ibiza SS27
A high-collared, structured shoulder piece detailed with intricate beadwork and hanging tassel accents and a strapless, high-cut bodysuit tailored with coordinating vertical beaded lines. Accessories included black, pointed-toe pumps with straps and red floral embellishment.
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