Preppy, Sports References Rule at New York Men’s Day

Preppy continues to have staying power in menswear.

Although men’s brands participating in New York Fashion Week were few and far between, the designers who were part of the conversation offered up some new takes on the heritage trend.

That was evident at New York Men’s Day, which kicked off the week on Wednesday. Peak Lapel, a collection created by Ben Stedman and Jack Milkes, was the quintessential example.

The duo, who met while students at Parsons School of Design, bonded over their shared love of classic and historical menswear and created the label to offer traditional pieces reworked in modern silhouettes and fabrics.

Their fall collection, titled “Breaking Home Ties” after a Norman Rockwell painting of the same name, was inspired by what they believed young men going out into the world for the first time would wear. That included updated suits and overcoats for first-job interviews, as well as an assortment of collegiate-inspired pieces including a double-breasted chore jacket and a reimagined Phillips Exeter sweater if they weren’t quite ready to leave the Ivy League halls.

Although Peak Lapel was the most overt example of preppy-dom, other brands were clearly influenced by the trend. That included Chelsea Grays, an eponymous luxury streetwear collection. Although her fall collection was ostensibly about overcoming anxiety and depression, the line also offered some distinctly collegiate-inspired pieces, such as vests and crewneck sweaters with the name of the brand printed on the front and an assortment of blazers with patches of different colors that Grays said was intended to look like the jackets had been splashed with paint.

Wangda, designed by creative director Wangda Chen, also offered a collection of what he deemed “reimaginations of classic menswear, but through a different lens.” As such, he put his spin on everything from the Japanese kimono to updated leather jackets and tuxedos as well as oversize pants with 12 pleats. “I’m trying to create a new shape,” he said.

Among the most interesting pieces was a trenchcoat that looked traditional at first glance, but upon closer examination featured a “second layer,” or a strip that could be buttoned across the front for better coverage from the elements. An intriguing addition.

When not engrossed in their studies, preppy students also embrace the outdoors. And for those who like to throw a line into the water, they could easily be wearing Avon Anglers.  

The line, designed by Connecticut-born Patrik Rzepski, is based on fishing and hunting. For its fall collection, the five-year-old, New York-based brand, which has a store in Greenwich Village, offered a lesson in craftsmanship. The small batch pieces included a sailor pant with a lower waist and a hidden elastic waist tab, a sleeveless reverse sweatshirt, and a field shirt, which Rzepski described as a striped button-down whose design was based off an old fly-fishing shirt.

Also leaning into the sports theme was Christopher Lowman. Although the designer has never been on skis, that didn’t stop him from basing his fall collection on fashions near the slopes. But rather than the highly technical pieces an Olympic downhiller might wear, he opted for more casual options, or what he described as “cabin looks: something you’d wear to go skiing on the weekend with your cool friends.”

That included a brightly colored cardigan, a bold blue varsity jacket — the color of which was inspired by the sky — with “Ski Fast, Take Chances” written on it, and a long-sleeve polo paired with winter white pants with images of skiers emblazoned on them.

Science Project Company, a five-year-old New York-based brand, focused on another menswear staple: military references. Creative director Heginz Janvier transformed classic silhouettes such as trenchcoats and cargo pants into new offerings by creating them from technical fabrics and adding pockets in unconventional locations, such as above the ankles or on the waist.

New York Men’s Day also marked the return of A.Potts, whose designer Aaron Potts said he had taken a break “to figure things out.” This time, instead of focusing on “show pieces,” the designer opted to offer a collection of “cool pieces people will wear every day.” That included a raincoat in the form of a poncho, and a textured overcoat.

NYMD was held for the second time at the Mercedes-Benz of Manhattan showroom on the West Side, providing the brands an upscale location to showcase their collections. As part of the day, Project brought 11 of the brands that will be showing at its Las Vegas trade show this month. They included Devereux Golf, Psycho Bunny, Lost My Accent, Moshe Yossel and Public Drip. Each brand was represented through a daytime and an evening look, said Edwina Kulego, vice president of global business development and growth at Project’s parent, Informa Markets.