Brogue. You may not know the word, but you’d certainly recognize the style. A brogued shoe is marked by punched perforations, ranging from subtle to exaggerated, that give it a distinctly old-world look.
They can be broken down into a handful of subcategories, including full brogues or “wingtips” whose decorative detailing forms a “W” around the toe; “longwings” that extend the broguing to the back heel seam; and “semi” or “half brogues” that feature broguing along their seams and cap toe.
While purely decorative today, broguing was originally utilitarian. It arose in the Scottish Highlands, where trekkers in wet weather desired punched-out holes in their footwear that would allow rain to drain. As a result, many brogue styles today still retain features like water-resistant storm welts, calling back to the style’s role as a foul-weather shoe in a time before rubber. True to their country origins, they often feature thick soles and a more rounded shape.
Such details make the brogue a more casual style of leather shoe, a boon in today’s more dressed-down world. The chunky shape and namesake detail allow them to easily pair with both denim and flannel trousers, making the brogue a rare jack-of-all-trades as far as footwear’s concerned.
Tricker’s Bourton Country Shoe
Image Credit: Tricker’s Established in 1829, Tricker’s can claim to be England’s oldest established shoemaker. Its signature style is the Bourton, a heavy-duty brogue that comes complete with a full bellows tongue and storm welt for maximum water resistance and a double leather sole for extra longevity. Built on the brand’s 4444 last, it runs about a half-size larger than the regular UK size.
Grenson Archie
Image Credit: Grenson There’s subtle broguing —and then there’s Grenson’s Archie shoe, whose brogues are punched extra-large for maximum effect. Elsewhere, it benefits from a leather sole fitted with rubber at the forepart and heel for extra longevity. Like Grenson’s other styles, the Archie requires 8 weeks and over 200 individual operations to create.
Morjas Adelaide Leather Brogues
Image Credit: Morjas Morjas’ Spanish-made derby features a storm welt and a studded rubber sole to maximize its utility in inclement weather. Marked by more subtle broguing, it also features a round toe for a more forgiving fit.
Thom Sweeney Pebble Grain Leather Brogue Shoes
Image Credit: Thom Sweeney Thom Sweeney tapped Crockett & Jones to make its brogue, which is distinguished by a pebble grain leather upper and a lightweight Vibram lugged sole. With a smart, burnished finish and a rounded shape, they’re capable of being worn with cuffed denim and smart trousers.
Mr P. Suede Brogues
Image Credit: Mr P. With a water-resistant suede upper and a studded Vibram sole, Mr P.’s brogue is built for inclement weather. Its “Blake” last gives it a small amount of shaping through the waist while leaving it with the brogue’s traditional rounded shape.
Polo Ralph Lauren Maestra Calf-Suede Cap-Toe Shoe
Image Credit: Polo Ralph Lauren With an oxford construction and subtle perforations, Polo’s Maestra represents a more subtle and dressier take on the brogue. It also features a suede upper, a cap-toe detail and a leather sole, all of which make it smart enough to pair to a suit.
Alden Burgundy No. 8 Shell Cordovan Longwing Blucher
Image Credit: Alden One of Alden’s most legendary models, its longwing blucher is a battleship of a shoe. Made on its rounded Barrie last with a double leather sole and a shell cordovan upper, it’s nigh-indestructible and pairs with both Ivy style tailoring and casual workwear. Founded in 1884, Alden continues to make all of its shoes in Middleborough, Massachusetts.
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