Georgian-London based designer David Koma made his Milan Fashion Week debut as creative director of Blumarine. His AW25 collection is characterised by “dark romance.” A recurring motif throughout the collection was the thistle, a symbol of protection and vulnerability, incorporated through crystal appliqués and silver detailing.
Blumarine, founded in 1977, has undergone several significant developments recently. In December 2022, EIH Eccellenze Italiane, the owner of Blumarine, considered an IPO. Founder Marco Marchi cited the group’s strong growth, partly due to “a successful creative repositioning” of Blumarine under designer Nicola Brognano. Under his creative direction, a strong Y2K aesthetic was introduced, but creative changes followed in quick succession.
Brognano left the house in October 2023 after three years as creative director. A month later, Walter Chiapponi was appointed creative director at Blumarine, but left the company after only a few months. His successor, Koma, was appointed in July 2024 and brings experience from his eponymous label, founded in 2009, and his previous role as creative director at Mugler (2013-2017).
See below images from Koma’s debut show for Blumarine. With this collection, Koma charts a new course, positioning Blumarine as a romantic brand with a tough, dark edge, appealing to both younger and mature audiences.
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