Illustration by Chandler Bondurant
As far as menswear essentials go, chinos are right up there with the blue blazer and the oxford cloth button-down. Also called khakis after their most common color, the chino pant originated in the late 19th century, when it was worn by European and American soldiers serving in tropical climates. The name itself was a byproduct of the Spanish-American war, as American troops stationed in the Philippines used the Spanish word— “chino”—to refer to their army-issued pants made from Chinese cotton-twill.
Simply designed, durably made chinos continued to be a U.S. military standard through the Second World War, and when thousands of servicemen were decommissioned and sent to college on the G.I. bill, they brought their surplus chinos with them. This migration to campus soon made it an Ivy style staple, paired with loafers, a blazer and a repp tie.
The pant’s varied history—from government-issue to preppy icon—is reflected in the styles below, which vary from the wide-legged, flat-front officer-style to more contemporary makes with a tapered leg and stretch-cotton material.
Polo Ralph Lauren Whitman Relaxed Fit Pleated Chino Pant
Image Credit: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo’s Whitman chino has a distinctly English feel, with details like double forward pleats and a patch-flap watch pocket. These features, together with its wider fit and higher waist, make it a strong choice for wear with tailoring.
Barnstormer Khaki Flat Front Chinos – 1952UC
Image Credit: Barnstormer Founded in 1977, Barnstormer became the first Japanese brand to make American-style chinos. Its 1952UC model is modeled after the chinos worn by American servicemen during the occupation of Japan, and is made from sturdy, single-ply Japanese cotton.
Drake’s Sand Heavy Cotton Flat Front Chino
Image Credit: Drake’s Taking inspiration from mid-century workwear, this Drake’s chino is made from a heavy Italian-milled cotton twill and features buttoned side adjusters in addition to belt loops. Its higher rise is complemented by a full leg that tapers slightly below the knee.
Rubato Officer’s Chino in Dark Khaki
Image Credit: Rubato A robust, 12 oz Japanese cotton is the foundation of this military-inspired chino by Rubato. The Swedish label has kept its design classic and clean, with a flat front and a jetted coin pocket.
The Armoury by Ring Jacket Cotton Sport Chinos
Image Credit: The Armoury The Armoury tapped Japan’s Ring Jacket to make its Sport Chinos, which bridge the casual-formal divide with a button fly, lapped side seams, a higher rise and a tapered leg. It is made from a soft Italian cotton weighted for three-season wear.
Sunspel Straight-Leg Garment-Dyed Cotton-Blend Twill Chinos
Image Credit: Sunspel Sunspel’s take on the chino is thoroughly modern, with a lower rise and slim-straight leg. Its cotton material has been garment-dyed for extra softness and blended with a touch of elastane for a more forgiving fit.
NN07 Theo Tapered Stretch Organic Cotton-Twill Chinos
Image Credit: NN07 Copenhagen-based NN07 has taken a minimalist approach to is flagship Theo chino, which is made from an organic stretch cotton-twill. With a mid-rise, tapered leg and clean silhouette, it’s a jack-of-all-trade pant from tees to chore coats.
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