“The loudest brands will not define the future”

The Pitti Uomo menswear trade fair is just around the corner, bringing with it the first insights for spring/summer 2027. Trend expert Julian Daynov explains what will shape the upcoming menswear season. He covers everything from new silhouettes and materials to the colour palette, and addresses how brick and mortar retail can regain relevance in uncertain times.

Cultural and social influences for spring/summer 2027

We live in a time of permanent acceleration, which is why there is a growing desire for things that convey stability. Craftsmanship, heritage, culture and authenticity are becoming important once more.

Simultaneously, we are seeing a new openness towards identity, personality and authenticity. The boundaries between classic masculinity and femininity continue to lose relevance. Instead, more complex expressions of masculinity are emerging. Fashion is increasingly becoming a cultural dialogue rather than just a product category. The search for community also plays a significant role.

In the future, brands will be judged not only on their collections but also on their ability to create cultural spaces and genuine connections.

Where menswear is heading as boundaries continue to dissolve

Menswear is currently in one of its most exciting phases of transformation in decades. I believe we are moving away from the idea that menswear is a category defined primarily by rules, dress codes or tradition. The future lies more in a new form of self-determination.

The “modern man” no longer just buys clothes. He buys identity, attitude and belonging. Products are therefore becoming more emotional, personal and narrative. Silhouettes are becoming softer, the lines between formal and casual wear are blurring further and the wardrobe is increasingly becoming a curated expression of one’s own personality. In 2027, menswear will be less about “who and how a man should be” and much more about who a person wants to be.

Where the transformation is most evident

I am observing five particularly relevant developments:

1. Return to quality and longevity: After years of oversupply, there is a growing desire for products with substance.

2. A new form of elegance: Less loud, less obviously luxurious, but significantly more refined.

3. Hybridisation: Categories are dissolving. Tailoring meets sportswear; craftsmanship meets technology; tradition meets innovation.

4. Cultural diversity as a design driver: The most exciting brands emerge where different perspectives, origins and creative languages meet.

5. Emotional products: People want to own things they can build a relationship with again. In the future, clothing must tell stories and evoke feelings. This also explains why vintage shopping and the search for special pieces in grandparents’ wardrobes are so “trending” on social media among Gen Z fashionistas.

What these developments mean for next summer’s colour palette

The colour palette moves between calm and optimism. We will see many natural, sun-bleached tones: sand, chalk, sage, linen white and washed-out earth tones.

At the same time, an exciting contrast is created by targeted colour accents. I expect warm terracotta nuances, deep saffron, oxide red and various shades of blue reminiscent of the sky and sea. Colours in 2027 will seem less artificial and digital. They will feel as if they have been created by light, time and nature.

The season begins with a new form of tranquillity – a quiet elegance that doesn’t have to be loud to make an impact. Light mélange grey tones merge with milky white, creating an atmosphere of clarity and lightness. Clean cotton jacquards and airy knit structures create surfaces reminiscent of the organic beauty of honeycombs, lending the material an almost architectural depth.

Everyone always asks me: “What does that mean in colour codes?” – Stalactite, White Swan, Fade Wax, Peach Ice Cream, Sun Glazed tones and Natural Tone Degrades.

How this translates into materials and surfaces

Cooling cotton qualities with subtle 3D effects feature fine micro-motifs and understated checks, perfect for a new generation of lightweight summer jackets. Small jacquard diamonds meet cotton-linen qualities with a seemingly simple look, creating a relaxed sense of ease – effortless, modern and authentic.

A knitted pinstripe reinterprets the language of classic woven fabrics, bridging the gap between tradition and the present. At the same time, a jacquard knit with graphic lettering motifs adds subtle accents, giving the collection an individual, almost curatorial signature.

It is a season where sophistication comes not from exaggeration, but from nuances, textures and the art of restraint.

Haptic experience and key materials for SS27

Materiality is becoming a key luxury factor. Customers don’t just want to see clothes; they want to experience them. Comfort is just as essential as modernity. Linen remains an important summer staple, but in much higher-quality and softer versions. In addition, technical natural fibres, innovative cotton developments, ultra-light wool qualities and modern blended fabrics will play an important role.

I find the development of materials that combine performance and craftsmanship particularly exciting. The future lies not in “tech” or “tradition”, but in the intelligent fusion of both worlds.

What this combination could look like

I think as early as next week in Florence, we will see younger and slightly less ‘classically’ focused ‘Pitti Fashion Icons’ styling ultra-short running shorts with blazers, or combining them with a shirt and tie. We will also see blazers and tank tops together.

Proportions and the evolution of extreme silhouettes

The extremes will remain, but in a more nuanced way. We are moving away from purely dramatic displays of volume towards controlled generosity. Silhouettes are more relaxed, fluid and architectural. Shoulders appear more natural, jackets slightly longer and trousers looser. At the same time, we are seeing a return to more structure in the upper body. I am particularly interested in the idea of movement. Good menswear of the future creates space for the body instead of constricting it.

We are also seeing an influence from the 1990s and early 2000s, but interpreted in a much more refined way. The proportions feel generous, but never random. They convey self-confidence without being loud.

Ultimately, it’s no longer a question of “tight or loose”, but about the quality of the silhouette. The most exciting looks of the upcoming season will emerge where comfort, elegance and modernity are brought into a new balance. For me, that is the true definition of luxury in menswear in 2027.

Specific implications for tailoring

In tailoring, we are observing an exciting readjustment of proportions. After years of exaggeration, designers are increasingly seeking balance. This doesn’t mean less expression, but more precision. The silhouette is becoming more intelligent. Volume is used more purposefully to create posture and presence without dominating the wearer.

For SS27, I therefore expect a new form of soft tailoring. Jackets with more length but less rigidity, trousers with a relaxed width and a clean drape, and constructions that convey lightness without losing substance. The development towards garments that can mediate between formality and casualness is particularly interesting. The boundaries between business, leisure and cultural life are increasingly blurring, and the new generation of menswear is responding to precisely that.

Focus for medium-sized clothing suppliers next season

On clarity and their own “signature” – they are, after all, the multipliers and trusted authorities for their “clients”. Many consumers are currently feeling insecure, both economically and socially. In such phases, brands that offer guidance will win.

Many brands today operate in a similar aesthetic space. Differentiation is not necessarily created by volume, but by character. The most successful companies will be those that can convey a clear stance and connect with their customers on an emotional level.

Swimming against the tide

Medium-sized suppliers should focus less on short-term trends and more on a credible profile. Quality, fit, materiality and a clear signature are becoming more important than an oversupply of products.

I see great potential in “contemporary tailoring”. The demand for modern, versatile wardrobes is growing. Men are looking for garments that can connect different areas of life – office, travel, leisure, social occasions. Products that intelligently combine comfort, functionality and elegance will be particularly successful.

In my view, the future belongs neither to the loudest brands nor the fastest. It belongs to those that combine consistency, quality and cultural relevance. Medium-sized companies in particular have an advantage here: they can operate closer to their customers, communicate more authentically and build credibility. This will become a decisive competitive advantage in an increasingly interchangeable market.

Role of versatility in individual pieces

The assortment architecture is crucial! Today’s customers think less in terms of individual items and more in terms of functional outfits and wardrobe building blocks. Anyone who offers products that can be combined effortlessly and remain relevant over several seasons builds trust and long-term customer loyalty; this trust is then a much more relevant currency than the short-term transaction with each visit.

Attracting customers to stores during a consumer slump

The biggest competitor for brick and mortar retail today is not the online shop, but indifference. We live in an age where consumers can shop anytime, anywhere. So when people consciously make their way to a store, they don’t do it primarily for a product. They are looking for inspiration, guidance, interaction and an experience that goes beyond the mere purchase.

For many years, the main topic in retail was efficiency. Today, it’s about relevance again. The most successful stores of the future will be those that have a clear identity and offer their customers real added value. Brick and mortar retail must once again become a place people want to visit, not just a place where they shop.

Especially in economically challenging times, it is not enough to attract attention with discounts. Price promotions can create short-term footfall, but they rarely generate long-term loyalty. What customers are looking for today is trust. They want to be sure that their investment is worthwhile. That is why expert advice, high-quality assortments and credible product recommendations are becoming enormously important.

The role of the retailer as a curator is becoming particularly important here. Consumers feel increasingly overwhelmed by the sheer volume of products on offer. Retail can provide guidance here by not showing everything, but by selecting the right things. A clear signature, a coherent assortment logic and a well-told brand universe are becoming decisive success factors.

Future direction for brick and mortar retail

Stores must become more like cultural meeting places. The most interesting retail concepts worldwide now function like platforms. They connect fashion with art, design, gastronomy, music or local communities. Customers want to be part of something. They want to discover stories, meet people and experience new perspectives.

I see enormous potential for events, talks, exclusive presentations or collaborations with creatives, especially in the premium and contemporary segments. Such formats create emotional closeness and give people a reason to be physically present. The store thus becomes a social space again and not just a sales floor.

Role of sales staff

Service is becoming increasingly important. In a digital world, human expertise becomes a luxury. Well-trained staff who can explain products, develop styling ideas and build genuine relationships with customers are becoming a key differentiating factor. People rarely remember square metre figures or displays – they remember how a place made them feel.

Building a stronger emotional connection with customers

Retail is a relationship business. Those who succeed in creating trust, inspiration and emotional relevance will be successful even in a challenging market. The future of retail does not lie in competing with the internet. It lies in offering something that cannot be digitally reproduced: atmosphere, encounters, humanity and cultural relevance.

Fashion shows and weeks to watch

I am increasingly interested in formats that go beyond the classic fashion show. The most exciting impulses often arise where fashion meets art, design, music or social issues.

Of course, the international menswear weeks in Milan and Paris remain important benchmarks. At the same time, I am watching with great interest platforms that promote new talent and make alternative perspectives visible. Subculture is the real driver of innovation. That’s where the trends emerge that we all then adapt and interpret accordingly. Often today, it is not the biggest shows that define the future, but the boldest ideas.

Nevertheless, I am very excited about the guest designers and special events at Pitti Uomo – Simone Rocha, Kei Ninomiya and Sunflower. I think what the curatorial team in Florence, with Francesca Tacconi and Antonio Cristaudo, stages each season is sensational. The focus they place on design as a cultural narrative and art as a driver of inspiration for the entire business is absolutely unique.

This interview was conducted in writing.