Illustrations by Chandler Bondurant
By its very name, the trench coat is closely associated with WWI, but originated before the global conflict. Its precise origins are still disputed, with British heritage brands Aquascutum (sadly out of business) and Burberry both taking credit.
What’s not up for dispute is the garment’s make, focused on a water-repellent gabardine fabric that proved much lighter and more breathable than the heavy wool field jackets British troops were used to in the field. And when the British army brought their trench coats to the continent, they were kitted out in military features like shoulder epaulettes for indicating rank insignia and metal D-rings that could hold maps, swords (and supposedly) grenades.
After the war, the trench remained popular in peacetime and was popularized by Hollywood in countless noir films, as well as Humphrey Bogart’s turn in Casablanca. It also became a favorite of moody French philosophers and filmmakers, worn with elan in real life by Albert Camus and on-screen by Alain Deloin in films like Le Samouraï.
So, as the storm clouds of spring begin to gather, consider striking out in a trench from Todd Snyder, Grenfell, Brooks Brothers, or any of the other makers below.
Private White V.C. The Despatch Rider’s Trench
Image Credit: Private White V.C. 
Based on the trench coats donned by Allied dispatch riders in WWII, this Private White V.C. piece is chock full of military details, including gun flaps, a back saddle, and copper D-rings. Made from waterproof ventile fabric with copper taping and warmed by a removable cashmere-wool liner, it’s more than ready to see action.
Brooks Brothers The Supima Cotton Trench Coat
Image Credit: Brooks Brothers Classically detailed with features including shoulder epaulettes, a storm flap, and belted cuffs, this Brooks Brothers trench is made from extra-fine Supima cotton with natural water-repellent qualities. It even comes with a removable quilted liner, so you can bring it back out on wet days come fall.
Mackintosh Blanefield Gabardine Double Breasted Trench Coat
Image Credit: Mackintosh Constructed from a water-repellent gabardine cloth weighted for three-season wear, Mackintosh’s Blanefield is a more tailored take on the classic trench. It also features a removable liner made from Glen Check Fox Brothers wool.
Grenfell Windsor Grenfell Cloth Beige
Image Credit: Grenfell Grenfell has been making trenches since 1930, for British and Commonwealth forces as well as the general public. Its classic-fitting Windsor is based on the original model, featuring an inverted storm vent and raglan sleeves, and can be ordered with a detachable wool/cashmere liner.
Burberry Long Kensington Heritage Trench Coat
Image Credit: Burberry No conversation on the trench coat is complete without Burberry, which continues to make its classic Kensington trench in England. Even the iconic checked fabric that appears as the lining and under the collar is a UK product, having been milled exclusively for the brand in Yorkshire.
Todd Snyder Italian Cotton Trench Coat
Image Credit: Todd Snyder This single-breasted trench by Todd Snyder has a more discreet profile and is made from a double-layered coated cotton for a greater degree of water resistance. The hidden button placket gives it a clean, modernist look.
Cohérence AL II Trench Coat
Image Credit: Cohérence Japan-based Cohérence is known for its exhaustive attempts to recreate the outerwear worn by iconic cultural figures. In this case, it’s the trench coat worn by Albert Camus in the 1950s, itself originally a WWII-issue garment. Made from a specially produced waterproof gabardine, it features a high-waisted belt and a large stand collar that’s pure ennui.
Sid Mashburn Traveler’s Trench
Image Credit: Sid Mashburn In keeping with their historical mission, trench coats tend to be heavy-duty affairs. However, Sid Mashburn stripped down the design to produce this lightweight, travel-friendly version made from a dry-wax Scottish poplin.
Brioni Belted Leather Trench Coat
Image Credit: Brioni There are leather jackets—and then there’s this full-on leather trench coat made from Brioni. Its generous cut uses a frankly ridiculous amount of supple calf leather and is finished with an integrated belt.
A.P.C. Double-Breasted Twill Trench Coat
Image Credit: A.P.C. A.P.C. made its reputation on quiet, cleanly designed menswear staples, a feat it has pulled off yet again with this cotton-wool trench. Its simpler silhouette does away with extraneous details like epaulettes and D-rings but retains a double-breasted stance with a pleasingly slouchy fit.
Massimo Alba Mustang Woven Trench Coat
Image Credit: Massimo Alba A suitably Italian take on the military style, Massimo Alba’s trench coat features a slouchy self-belt more appropriate to peacetime. It’s made from a pleasantly crinkly, water-repellent cotton-blend.
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