Illustration by Chandler Bondurant
The tuxedo—or depending on your geographical position, the dinner suit (Britain) or le smoking (France)—at first feels like the ultimate in conformist dress. A two-piece suit made from black wool with tonal silk lapels and facings, it feels as if there’s very little room for men to differentiate themselves when the invitation reads “black tie.”
And yet, the narrow parameters of what may be counted as a tuxedo can make those small differences all the more meaningful and appreciated by the discerning eye. For instance, black isn’t the only choice on the menu: there’s also the option of midnight navy, an innovation credited to Edward VIII during his reign as the Prince of Wales, when he noticed that the hue looked blacker-than-black under the glow of then-novel artificial lighting.
Perhaps most notably, lapels may also be played with, the standard options being the sharp and more formal peaked lapel, or the slightly louche and rakish shawl. The facings of said lapels might appear in flat and shining satin, ribbed grosgrain, or the somewhat rarer faille, a finely textured silk that falls somewhere between the two.
From its adoption by American bluebloods in Tuxedo Park, New York, in the 1880s, the tuxedo has remained virtually unchanged. However, hewing to tradition isn’t the same as stagnation: discover the subtle differences in the offerings from Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Sid Mashburn, J. Mueser, and more below.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label Gregory Hand-Tailored Wool Peak Tuxedo
Image Credit: Ralph Lauren Purple Label 
Purple Label represents the highest echelon of Ralph Lauren’s vision, best expressed in the make of its tuxedos. Its Gregory model is made from wool barathea and benefits from hand-tailored details, including hand-sewn buttonholes and edges. A subtly roped shoulder leans into classical tailoring, while its lightweight canvassing and slimmer silhouette give it contemporary appeal.
Todd Snyder Straight Fit Italian Flannel Tuxedo
Image Credit: Todd Snyder Wool flannel, typically considered a more casual fabric, has been transformed into a tux by Todd Snyder. The fabric’s natural drape, combined with a wide peak lapel, makes it an elegant surprise.
J. Mueser MTO Black Waverly Tuxedo
Image Credit: J. Mueser J. Mueser’s made-to-order Waverly tuxedo is hand-tailored in Naples from a more lustrous wool-mohair blend. Its wide peaked lapel and single-button stance are classics, and slim turnback cuffs lend just a little more élan.
Paul Smith The Soho – Tailored-Fit Black Velvet Evening Suit
Image Credit: Paul Smith Velvet is most often used in standalone smoking jackets, but in Paul Smith’s rebellious hands, it’s become the material for a full-on tux. The matching jacket and trousers feature tonal satin trims, clearing up any questions over whether it can be counted as a true tuxedo.
Anglo-Italian Tuxedo Black Wool Peak Lapel
Image Credit: Anglo-Italian Though it may appear like any other classic peaked lapel tuxedo at first glance, Anglo-Italian’s house model is full of intentional touches. Its facings are made from faille, a very lightly ribbed silk, and the cloth is a 10oz English wool twill with a completely matte finish. In terms of make, it boasts hand-tailoring at the collar, armholes, buttonholes and linings.
Sid Mashburn Kincaid No. 3 Peak Lapel Tuxedo Navy Wool Mohair with Silk Grosgrain Trim
Image Credit: Sid Mashburn Sid Mashburn’s Kincaid No. 3 tuxedo is intended to be a close cousin of the brand’s standard tailoring offering. While it features the black-tie details of grosgrain facings and trim, a single-button closure, and peak lapels, it’s made with the same natural shoulder recognizable to any Sid fans.
The Armoury by Ring Jacket Wool/Mohair Model 4 Tuxedo
Image Credit: The Armoury Made in Japan expressly for The Armoury, the Model 4 Tuxedo benefits from a number of exacting design tweaks: a slightly extended shoulder, a fuller chest, and a lowered buttoning point for a more classic look. Tailored from a four-season wool-mohair blend, it’s finished with satin facings and generous peak lapels.
J. Press Made-in-USA Satin Shawl Collar Tuxedo
Image Credit: J. Press The shawl collar is the more casual choice when it comes to black tie, and a perfect complement to J. Press’ laidback ethos. The label’s American-made tux also boasts classic Ivy features like an undarted front, natural shoulder, and hooked vent.
Thom Sweeney Peak Lapel Suit
Image Credit: Thom Sweeney Thom Sweeney’s house tuxedo is available in the most midnight of midnight navies, a hue so dark that it will appear black next to anything but another black tuxedo. Its sharp but softly constructed in the Thom Sweeney house style, with natural shoulders and sleek, peaked lapels.
Mr P. Slim-Fit Double-Breasted Shawl-Collar Wool, Mohair and Silk-Blend Tuxedo Jacket
Image Credit: Mr P. Sold as a separate but capable of linking to matching trousers, this Mr. P tuxedo jacket pushes the boundaries of black tie without breaking the rules. It’s made from a blend of wool, mohair and silk that will better catch the light, and cut slim with a wide shawl collar and a 2×1 double-breasted stance.
Byrceland’s Made-to-Order Tuxedo Lounge Jacket
Image Credit: Byrceland’s While it may sound counterintuitive, Bryceland’s has produced the most casual approach to black tie in the form of its tuxedo lounge jacket, which can be paired to matching trousers. Made from a hefty, 370g Fox Brothers flannel and cut like a robe with a kimono-style closure and a beefy grosgrain lapel, it may be the ultimate tuxedo for entertaining at home.
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