The Best in Jewelry, From a Harry Winston Diamond to a Santi Bracelet

For over a decade, British jeweler Glenn Spiro and his son, Joe, have been collecting 17th-century Baoulé gold artifacts, finely etched and handworked by the African tribespeople. This year, they combined these decorative elements with antique diamonds and other centuries-old treasures in his Materials of the Old World collection. “You can wear something that is thousands of years old in a contemporary, cool style,” says the elder Spiro, known for his unconventional way of setting rare stones. In his hands, statement pieces—like this necklace with Baoulé fragments, ancient amber beads, and diamonds—draw attention not for their carat weight but for their striking composition. 

Harry Winston earned his reputation as the King of Diamonds by acquiring the world’s rarest stones, most notably the 45.52-carat deep-blue Hope Diamond, which he donated to the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C., in 1958. Following in his footsteps, his son Ronald (who is no longer affiliated with the house) gave the Winston Red, a 2.33-carat fancy-red diamond, to the museum in 2023; it went on view for the first time this year.

The company’s CEO, Nayla Hayek, who is also chairwoman of parent company Swatch Group, has similarly remained steadfast to the founder’s passion for exquisite colored diamonds. Among the brand’s treasures are the Winston Blue, a 13.22-carat vivid-blue diamond; the Winston Pink Legacy, an 18.96-carat vivid-pink diamond; and this newly acquired 5.22-carat fancy-intense-pink cushion-cut stone. Set in a platinum and 18-karat-rose-gold ring and surrounded by approximately 1.64 carats of white diamonds, it’s destined for a connoisseur with a museum-worthy collection. 

Set with 10 octagonal-cut antique Afghan (Tajikistan) spinels dating to the 19th century, this bracelet is a prime example of Santi designer Krishna Choudhary’s exceptional access to historic stones. Based in Jaipur for 10 generations, his family has sourced gems for India’s maharajas and nobility for centuries. Now, the 36-year-old Choudhary—who studied art before becoming a jeweler—has forged his own path by setting antique gems in modern geometric designs. Because of its complexity, this articulated open-worked titanium bracelet, featuring an intricate lattice of custom-cut baguette diamonds, took three years to complete. It was worth the wait. 

A testament to Hemmerle’s architectural aesthetic, this bold sculpted-bronze ring holds an unexpected six-carat-plus vivid chrome tourmaline, prized for its intense, saturated-green hue, surrounded by about five carats of tsavorites. “The interplay between sharp, structural forms and the fluid brilliance of the stones creates a dynamic visual tension,” says fourth-generation jeweler Christian Hemmerle. He and his wife, Yasmin, are putting their signature on the family moniker while staying true to its modernist heritage. Another statement: After 120 years in its Maximilianstrasse boutique, Hemmerle moved to an upstairs light-filled salon with a more exclusive air on the same street in Munich this spring. 

The design brief began with the childhood memory of a dandelion, its puffy seeds scattering in the wind. “My first encounter with magic,” Greek jeweler Nikos Koulis recalls of his epiphany about nature’s simple beauty. So poignant was the moment, he spent the past two years re-creating that ethereal spirit in metal and diamonds. The resulting Wish Collection is forged in sculpted lightweight aluminum, with diamonds that seem to hover above their settings. (They are secured with floating gold prongs.) Bold yet delicate, the aesthetic Koulis pioneered is a sparkling illusion that, upon closer inspection, reveals his technical prowess—and his ability to spin a touch of nostalgia into a thoroughly modern masterpiece. 

Jewelry connoisseurs will no doubt recognize the design. Created by Suzanne Belperron in 1933 as a black-lacquered cord looped around a diamond button, it was an ultramodern and quirky concept that was quickly snapped up by avant-garde couturiere Elsa Schiaparelli for her personal collection. Today, its influence can be seen in many jewelers’ collections that imitate Belperron’s genius. But who better to do it justice than current Belperron president Nico Landrigan? When he acquired a massive old-mine brilliant-cut fancy light-yellow VS2 diamond weighing in at over 65 carats, he chose the Toggle Torque’s simple setting as the best framework to let the exceptional stone stand out. 

Tiffany’s star burst necklace is the embodiment of what high jewelry should be: exceptional stones and craftsmanship in an entrancing play of color, sparkle, and fantastical design. Inspired by archival sketches from legendary 20th-century designer Jean Schlumberger, this exquisite work is made with 64 carats of billowy crystal opals that have vibrant flashes of red, orange, blue, and green, surrounded by diamond starbursts. Intended to evoke a luminous galaxy in a wearable objet d’art, it also nods to the cosmic nature of gemstones. 

For four decades, Yafa Signed Jewels has been a go-to for highly collectible vintage pieces from marquee houses like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston. A prime example of the kind of gems you’ll find in stock at its Palm Beach and New York City boutiques is this extremely rare, fully signed, and possibly unique 1980s-era Cartier Panthère brooch. Its articulated form can drape over a shoulder, or its tail can curve along a lapel. It recalls the Panthère bracelet that once belonged to the Duchess of Windsor. Measuring seven inches long by one inch wide, the brooch is set in 18-karat yellow gold with white, yellow, and cognac diamonds and emerald eyes. It’s safe to say you won’t see one of these in the wild again anytime soon. 

Extraordinary gems are a given at Graff, but when the house debuted new high jewelry in New York City last November, a 118.17-carat cushion-cut unheated Sri Lankan sapphire stole the spotlight—even in a room of stones that would make the most seasoned collector gasp. A sapphire of this size and quality is incredibly scarce. To emphasize its rarity, Graff mounted it atop an 18-karat-white-gold bangle—the stepped metal arches framing the central stone—and further adorned the piece with 39.70 carats of custom-cut fancy and round diamonds extending the full length of the setting. 

For a heritage house like Cartier, it’s easy to revisit its illustrious archives for inspiration. The challenge is evolving its design in contemporary ways. Mission accomplished: The Nature Sauvage high-jewelry collection reveals a progression of the French brand’s iconic motifs and designs in colorful, playful styles. There’s a feeling of movement in curvaceous shapes that sweep up the ear or drape around the neck like a supple silk scarf. What stands out is an enduring sense of modernity. Cartier’s use of beaded stones dates back to the maison’s early 20th-century designs and continues to look fresh today in such pieces as a necklace named Le Voyage Recommencé. Composed of a fluid pattern of chalcedony, spinel, and diamonds set in platinum, it hits just the right balance of color, texture, and form 

At first glance, these Lugano stunners appear to be simple drop earrings framed in blue titanium. But their centerpieces—a pair of cushion-cut Ceylon sapphires totaling 28.18 carats—are anything but ordinary. Flip them over and you’ll find the backs covered in 8.47 carats of baguette-cut white diamonds, each punctuated at the center by a 0.16-carat emerald. Lightweight but subtly high-impact, these earrings are a master class in duality—rich and monochrome from the front, sparkling on the back, and memorable at every angle. 

For decades, Reza has been revered for its extraordinary colored gemstones. Under the creative direction of Olivier Reza, son of the late founder Alexandre Reza, the maison is entering a bold new chapter—infusing its storied legacy with a fresh, contemporary spirit. Case in point: this striking ring, which masterfully balances color, proportion, and modernity. At its heart is a magnificent 11.67-carat Colombian emerald, flanked by two pink sapphires of 1.71 and 1.39 carats, respectively. The lively trio is set in a mix of brushed and high-polish 18-karat yellow gold. Reza describes the pairing of vibrant green and delicate pink as an “unexpected harmony”—and it’s easy to see why. Adding to its allure, the emerald is positioned to nestle between the fingers, creating the illusion that the stone floats gently in place.

Fifth-generation Swiss jeweler Albert Boghossian and Hong Kong–based designer extraordinaire Edmond Chin are high jewelry’s most dynamic design duo. Last year, they unveiled Palaces Voyages, an ambitious collection of colorful, elaborately detailed jewels inspired by ancient palaces from Riyadh to Jaipur. On his 10th anniversary as Boghossian’s creative director, Chin shows his artistry in standout works, including these earrings with very rare natural saltwater drop-shaped pearls of 16 carats each, antique carved leaf-shaped emeralds, and pear-shaped diamonds of three carats each, in a masterful composition. “Together, we have developed techniques that maximize the interaction of light with the gems, through innovative setting techniques,” says Boghossian, who is charged with realizing the pieces in his Swiss workshop. Some take several months to achieve in a process that requires skilled artisans, creative experimentation, and, no doubt, patience.